I remember when I first heard the term. Charley Mace and I were a couple pitches up a mellow, fun route in Clear Creek Canyon, trying unsuccessfully to outclimb thunderstorms, and talking about climbing, ego, and the like. One mutual climbing acquaintance kept coming up, one whose ego had come to define his persona, his […]
My paternal great-great grandfather, James T. Norton (1844-1883), was a man of few words. Or, at least that’s what his journal from 1865 indicates. It’s been sitting near my desk for years. I’ve scanned the pages, faded scribbles in pencil recording minute datapoints about each day with little fanfare: weather, movement, rations, commands, engagements. Even […]
Mesmerized. There’s no other way to put it. The scene unfolding before me was captivating, subtle hues of warming a jagged Himalayan sea, blues morphing, glimmers of amber and crimson flashing on distant ridges, shadows etching an impossible landscape. It was still frigid here, sunlight not yet penetrating the frigid shadows of the West Ridge […]
A quiet legend of mountaineering, John Evans' put his journals online for the public.
Antarctica, Everest History, John Evans
Read More"Ke garne?" It's the classic, at time frustrating, phrase in Nepal, often fatalistic and bothersome. But, in a nation reeling from recent earthquakes, persistent poverty, and government inaction, maybe it's a blessing, too.
When I first met him, I was pretty sure he was just a random drunk wandering around the Garden of the Gods. We were climbing a small route in the Garden, teaching friends to climb on what was supposed to be a 5.8, but felt more like 5.10. That’s when he approached, crooked teeth – […]
"It was not exactly difficult going, but it was a dangerous place for a single unroped climber, as one slip would have sent me in all probability to the bottom of the mountain." – Colonel Edward “Teddy” Norton Many volumes have been written about the 1924 Mount Everest Expedition, most of which have focused, understandably, on […]
Everest, Everest 1924, Everest History, Mallory & Irvine
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