In The Gulag Archipelago, Alexander Solzhenitsyn wrote:
If only it were all so simple! If only there were evil people somewhere, insidiously committing evil deeds, and it were necessary only to separate them from the rest of us and destroy them. But the line dividing good and evil cuts through the heart of every human being. And who is willing to destroy a piece of his own heart?
As we’ve traveled the former Yugoslavia for the past 7 weeks, I think all four of us have looked for the simplistic answers so often served us by Hollywood war movies and popular media: These guys are good, these guys are evil. Black and white. Simple.
But, as Solzhenitsyn noted, it’s not simple, not anywhere, and especially not here. Serbs as JNA attacked Slovenia and Croatia, and later Bosnia. Croats, too, attacked Bosnia. Bosniaks were also caught up in the atrocities. Alliances were formed and broken, concentration camps erected and cities sieged and civilians by the thousands caught and killed in the crossfire.
And, across this land – a land of beauty like I’ve never seen before – now lay the scars of war. Bullet holes and shell fragments, crumpled buildings and sprawling cemeteries punctuate the landscape and cityscape, reminding us humans yet again that our seemingly innate drive for conquest, power, riches, and war leads to no answers, only sadness, suffering, and loss.
The destroyed remains of the Jajce Barracks (Safet Hadžić Barracks) above Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. The remains of a shelled home, left over from the Siege of Sarajevo, in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Graveyard for the dead of the siege of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzogovina. Srebrenica memorial, downtown Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzogovina. Vedad Meskic, a guide and war historian, sharing the history of Mostar and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The famed Sniper Tower in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Formerly the Ljubljanska Bank, the tower was occupied by Croat snipers during the bloody, 9 month siege of Mostar. A shelled and destroyed home in Buna, Bosnia and Herzegovina. War memorial in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Ryrie Norton reads about the images on exhibit in the War Photos Exhibit, Dubrovnik, Croatia. The Stari Most, or Old Bridge, spanning the Neretva River in Mostat, Bosnia and Herzegovina. A wall riddled with bullet holes from the 1993 Siege of Mostar in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina.