October 8, 2013, Jajmau, Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh, India My eyes watered, nose ran, lungs burned. I wasn’t sick, but I sure felt like it. We’d spent the day wandering through Jajmau, a “suburb” of Kanpur - the Manchester of the East - and touring its tanneries. Lying just south of sprawling Kanpur, Jajmau is the […]

