I’m not sure what time it is, or really where I am. Somewhere near the coast of Brazil, I know that; sometime during my birthday - I know that, too. I've flown past the Hindu Kush Himalaya, Pamirs, Caucasus, and Atlas Mountains, and will soon cross the Andes. I'm headed to Chile to meet my family after a long time away. A blessing, to be sure, and made even more sweet coming as it is on the heels of an incredible adventure in Nepal.
I’ve spent much of the 12 hours since Istanbul sorting through photos, visual portals into experience far away yet close at hand, pixel-born reminders of a trip, a trail, impact and experience and immersion.
I’m never quite sure how to share tales of any adventure, less so one with such meaning (to me at least) as this past one. The standard travelogue seems too mundane, too pedantic, to capture it all. Some deep and philosophical tome equally missing the mark.
So, perhaps neither, maybe some of both, a hope of struck balance, or at minimum translation of time and place and experience and people. And not all at once: Like any expedition, these things must be savored, a bit at a time, building and percolating and settling and expanding yet again. So, first, the beginning…
I guess it was about 31 years ago - December 1993 - that Stuart Sloat and I bashed our way across the lower Khumbu Glacier from Lobuche and, laden with heavy packs, made our way to the Kongma La. We had no map, just a vague point from locals and the knowledge that there was a lake up there somewhere. We found only a puddle and a frigid night, but awoke to a splendid sunrise and the Star Wars zaps of sun-warmed ice cracking, alerting us to the real lake on the east side of the pass (as opposed to our mud wallow on the west). Glorious views, backlit Lhotse and Nuptse and countless more unknowns behind, peak on peak and valley on valley leading who knows where. I knew someday, maybe, I’d get into those valleys, wander the paths away from it all.
Thirty years later, I sat in a teahouse in Chheskam, the northern triumvirate of Mahakulung, with Jhanak Karki and Harka Kulung Rai, talking about opportunity over a steaming mug of tongba. We had just trekked parts of the Mundum Trail from Phedi over Silicho to Mahakulung visiting dZi Foundation work and communities; and then we went up above, following the Hunku Khola just enough to get a taste, an idea of what may lay above. The townspeople and government were excited as we were, having had the same idea for years: create a trail up the Hunku, connecting Chheskam to Kongme Dingma and the quite-popular Mera Peak trek.
It was all possible, all doable, but like the proverbial tree falling silently in the woods, this new trail would be all for naught if no word got out about it. But, I had an idea, and it seemed possible.
Two months before, I shared coffee in a small cafe in Glasgow with Sam Heughan. We’d “met” months earlier on Zoom calls for an ill-fated film project, and then I stalked him down in Scotland; he was, as is his manner, kind enough to indulge me rather than call the cops. I mentioned this idea, going to Everest Basecamp, but doing it the back way, the hard way, the way no one would know or understand or really care about, but the way that would be far deeper, more profound, more meaningful and purposeful and fun. He was game, but I needed to see some of it, understand it more, before committing to guiding anyone up there.
Tongba steaming and heads spinning, Jhanak, Harka, and I knew now it was doable. A route possible, something that promised to bring meaningful tourism and tourist dollars to this long-forgotten part of Nepal, so close to Khumbu and yet utterly left out of the economic boon of the Everest economy. Now I just had to convince Sam.
Trekking to Basecamp is not for the faint of heart, even doing it the standard way from Lukla up the Khumbu Valley. There’s long days, cold nights, high altitudes and dry air and new foods and more. It kicks people’s butts with glee. But this route? It promised much more: camping rather than lodges; an unknown trail through unknown country (How steep would it be? How long each day? Would we find water where we needed it, flat ground?); a 19,000-foot, semi-technical pass to cross into Khumbu; and more.
As I thought and hoped, though, Sam took little convincing. An adventurous soul with a heart of gold, he was excited immediately about it all and was on board. And, to be honest, my little coffeeshop meeting was both to suss out his interest and let him meet me (and judge me) in person, but also, more importantly, to feel him out. Guiding for me is not simply an economic thing, transactional, but about time and people and experience. I’ve done too many “off-the-shelf” trips in the past to have zero tolerance for sharing the mountains with people whose goals and values are misaligned with mine. It took but minutes with Sam to know our worlds, while vastly different, were built upon similar ideas and ideals and approaches.
And so, on December 3, we met in Kathmandu, a year’s planning finally coming together.
Unfortunately for Sam, I don’t really believe in the sugar-coated version of Nepal; fancy hotels and windowed views of life are little more than television with smell. I want people to see the real Nepal, wander the back streets, immerse in the smoky incense of dawn on cobbled streets, bells chiming and dogs barking, ambling through the visceral reality that is Pashupatinath, taking in the respite of Bodhanath, embracing the comforting chaos of alleys and backways of Lalitpur.
Sam rose to it all, never flustered or bothered, always interested and engaged and inquisitive. We had but 24 hours in the Valley, but Sam saw and did and digested a lot.
And then we were off, an Altitude Air B-3 piloted expertly by Moreno whipping us up and out of Kathmandu, through the clenching smog of the city to sprawling views of the Himalaya: the Ganesh and Langtang ranges, on to Dorje Lhakpa and Gauri Shankar as we fluttered high over Kavre Palanchok. Then the jumbled jags of Rolwaling and behind, finally, the Everest range, giants piercing the morning sky, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest. Makalu behind, hiding a bit, masked by multitudes, a distant Kangchenjunga almost a mirage eastward.
Before long, some 40 minutes, the show was over, the reality about to begin. We dropped down, our mark Chheskam, a small village clutching the flat ground hundreds of meters above the Hunku Khola, a river raging and carving down from above. Moreno, Swiss to the core, politely but abruptly ushered us out with our duffels and, counting fuel minutes, was off in a jiffy.
We were here, and town was ready.
Going into this trip, I knew Chheskam was excited. A new trail represents economic possibility for the village, the chance to not just be small pawns in the bigger Khumbu trekking economy, but rather to capture some of that themselves, to control it, to reap the benefits and build it out in a way that fits and flourishes.
I guess, though, I didn’t know how excited: We were met at the chopper by many, locals and officials, all adorning us with kathas and warm welcomes. We then walked around the village, Sam getting to see firsthand the impact of dZi Foundation’s work here, projects like one house-one tap, one house-one toilet, kitchen gardens, and more resulting in a very self-sufficient, healthy, clean, place with relative prosperity. Thanks to Jhanak’s connections, we met the oldest man in town as he demonstrated traditional weaving of nettle fabric, sipped raksi in our friend Prashanta’s house, and briefly sat with wedding guests tipsy from revelry. And then we were summoned to the local school for a bigger gathering.
It was huge, much of the town was gathered, hundred of school children, the local government officials, and more, all in the school grounds. We were run through the welcome gauntlet of ceremonial recognition, our necks strung with dozens of kathas and marigold garlands before being treated to local cultural dances and speeches of excitement and gratitude and welcome. Gratitude and ceremony are big in Nepal, and it was strong enough in Chheskam to feel a bit awkward: after all, Sam and I and our team were here just to walk up the valley. We had no guarantees of success - for us or for the future trail. But, the point I think was far bigger than either of us, any of us; the celebration on that day was one of excitement for the future, of possibility, of potential signified by the two of us being willing, caring enough, to come and do this and see where it leads, literally and figuratively.
Thirty-one years before I stared off into these valleys, selfishly hoping that one day I’d wander them, filling my personal cup with some adventure. It took a long time, and was beyond gratifying to finally be here, but doing so with great people, a great team, and a goal beyond anything personal.
Loved reading this and what an adventure for you and Sam. Just wonderful. Thank you for the read and so exciting for you both.
Thank you for sharing such an amazing journey. You and Wende do such wonderful work. Thank you for all you do
Oh thank you so much for sharing your trip. I want to hear all about it. And congratulations for blazing a new trail!
What an admirable adventure!! This was a wonderful documentary to this country and your determination and spirit. I think you could’ve found a better travel companion than Sam. How fun to make history and do it with a great team! Congratulations and bless your future endeavors.
I don’t think you could have found a better travel companion than Sam. **correction** from previous post
Thank you for sharing the story behind the trip snd the amazing pictures.
So beautifully written. Thank goodness for people like you and Sam in our world. I look forward to more of the story.
What a send-off! And how satisfying for you to bring it full circle from thirty years ago.
Wow!! Just amazing! What an adventure. 🙌🏻⛰️✨🧗♂️🥃❤️
Thanks for sharing 🙏. Both you and Sam Heughan seem euphorical over the journey and the treeking and that is a blessing when you have experienced something special. May it stay in a precious place in your ♥️. I’ve experienced something similar - forever greatful 🙏🌀🤗
I’m engrossed in this story. Can’t wait for more!
Well, how was it? You've waxed poetic about the beginning. What about the middle? The part where everything started to go sideways but yall managed to wrestle victory from the jaws of defeat? Did anyone come down with a raging case of hiccups during the trek and what cured it? I respectfully request you spill additional tea regarding your trip, sir.
Thank you. 💜
Thanks for sharing and from your meaningfull work in Nepal.
You couldn't find a better partner to inaugurare this new trail.
Wow this is all so very amazing! Loving your story & can’t wait to read more. It sounds like you were the perfect trekker to inaugurate this new trail! And Sam was so lucky you sought him out. I love the idea of seeing Nepal through the eyes of their people & places & food!
My husband & I were all set to work the Jimmy Carter World habitat build throughout Nepal in 2015 but close in it canceled due to unrest in the country and the government didn’t need to deal with hundreds of volunteers too. Very disappointing! I would love to know of the organizations working in Nepal to support.
Thank you and looking forward to reading more!
Rae
Thank you so much for inviting Sam for such an adventure such as this.I’m one of his many fans (all over the world) .We were so excited and frightened too, for him to try this and it seems he found just the right person to go with.Praying for much success with the area with this new found trail. Again thanks for keeping him safe and finding a new way up the mountain. 👏👏👏👏
Thank you so much for sharing your story about Nepal, the mountains, and the people 🙌🏻
Thank you so much for sharing your story Jake with Sam in Nepal, the mountains, the people, and the culture
I love the way you write. So descriptive that I can see in my mind’s eye the pictures you paint of the people you meet and the mountain paths you wander. To experience life is the medicine of the soul.
Bless you.
Your love for the land and people of Nepal shines through your writing from beginning to end. Thank you for sharing your stories with us!
Good evening Jake,
Reading this brought tears to my eyes. I have seen some of the pictures from your recent trek and I'm in awe of the human spirit and self-determination. Also the people of Nepal rest on my heart. The work that you are doing is so impactful and filled with kindness for culture, land and opportunities for all. I can only imagine the life-changing experiences you have had over the past thirty plus years. I'm inspired by your work and passion for humanity. Happy Holidays!
I have been to Nepal three times and did the Everest base camp trek many years ago before it became a traffic jam of tourists. Happy to hear you have discovered a new way of doing things. I hope to go back to a Nepal and explore the Mustang (sp) region. Big supporter of Sam Heughan and all that he does and achieves. Stay safe in your travels.
I'm not a mountain climber (the highest I did was in Vermont, Mt. Mansfield, but only a small way, due to thick fog), I enjoyed the cultural aspect you have shared and hope this new trail will be helpful to the people. Thank you for taking such good care of our Sam and helping him to realize some of his dream.
first reaction....Awe....more later?
Ah ! I am so very happy to hear that this well publicized trek wasn’t only “another tour”.. ( sorry for sounding judgmental- I just don’t know enough). It also sounds like will help local people in their everyday life.. ❤️You are explorer at heart I love your stories!
Amazing... thank you for sharing this amazing journey! I've climbed the Sierras in my 20's.. and then a dream came true when I hiked 4 days in Peru (Lares Trek) and camped at 12,500 feet and hiked over Condor Pass at 15,500 for my 65th birthday and then finished the trip viewing MacchuPicchu from the the of WynaPicchu. I think I'm way past my expiration date of hiking to Everest Base Camp at 74, but I will hike The Glencoe Challenge (26.2 miles) 3rd year in a row hoping to best my time again 11 hours 31 minutes. You have inspired me to do my best but to really absorb the experience to the fullest!
In 1980, I served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Chheskam surveying to design a gravity fed water system. I haven’t returned since then. Your shared story woke up memories…Hope to read how your journey continues to the Everest Region. Best regards, thomss
Looking forward to the continuation of this wonderful story. I will follow you because I'm excited about your travels.
Thank you for this Post..I now understand the importance of this new trail and hope it will work and will be everything the ppl dreamed and hoping for...
Great to read your experience and your last trip with sportive but unexperienced Sam.And the amazing pictures.
You found the right words to make me feel I also join you all. 🙋👌💚
What an amazing adventure!
Great read and fantastic adventure.
You and Sam should write a book about this trip. Followed closely by a documentary.
Pretty please with snow on top?
I can't imagine how you felt to see your dream come to fruition. These places in Nepal appear otherworldly to me in Los Angeles but also exciting and visceral. I'm not sure my 59 year old self will ever wander through that valley but my 25 year old self would jump at the chance. I wish you every success with your endeavors. I'm extremely happy to hear about the dZi Foundation and its success. Stay well.
Thank you Jake, this has been amazing for us, the fans of Sam Heughan. We have come to know Sam as a kind, adventurous, intelligent, and industrious young man, and most of all his ability to act. Maybe a future documentary or book of the adventure with proceeds to help that area. I wish to see other adventures you two may take. Best wishes…Billie.. Sam Heughan fan!!
What a wonderful adventure you and Sam had. It has been so interesting watching his posts and the gorgeous pictures.
Beautifully written. I look forward to reading more!
This world gets to be more welcoming for the next generations of trekkers thanks to trail-breakers like you. Respect!
You have the best man in Sam to help bring this new trail to the attention of many. I and numerous other "Peakers" we're eager to hear more about this inaugural trail. We were thrilled to see the first photos posted by you and Sam. This is an exciting venture and one that I hope is successful for reasons you stated in your blog. It will be a wonderful thing to see economically challenged areas benefit from this enterprise. Sam has a way of inspiring people so I'm in no doubt that this will be a success for many. Wishing you a Happy Christmas!
I’d be curious to know exactly how much control the townspeople have economically. I could see where wealthier western countries would swoop in with their infrastructure and engineering , etc., and employ the townspeople but the money ends up outside the country. What are the other forms of vocation are there in that part of the world?
Thank you for making this trip. I admire the purpose and hope it leads to opening a new trail and relative prosperity for those living in the area. Though I do hope it retains some of it ruggedness so it doesn't become the next popular trail with it's detrimental impact on nature and people. I am sure you have thought of it. I will be curious to know what the next step would be to make sure others follow the foot steps.
Wow! What a brilliant synopsis of your goal in life to capture, conquer and experience the mountains. I was so intrigued with it all when Sam decided to join you. It's been a lifelong dream of Sam's to climb. Especially after climbing Ben Nevis. Kudos to you for your care of Sam on this trek.