September 10, 2006, Diraphuk Gompa on the Kailash Kora, Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Gentle murmurings, soft, subtle, almost lost, camouflaged by a Himalayan breeze and squawks from goraks (Tibetan ravens). I sat and watched, quietly, trying not to disturb, not to invade their sacred space. The mother and daughter prostrated repeatedly - standing, then kneeling, then […]

September 25, 2000 - Near Pethang Ringmo, Tibet Note: I began writing this post a couple days ago while, interestingly, waiting out a storm in the Colorado high country above Fairplay. I didn’t know then that there were many trekkers stuck in the Kangshung Valley. I wish them well, and safe returns, and also send […]

Years ago, I was wandering with Pete McBride through trash piles on the outskirts of Rishikesh, India. We were filming the final bits of our film Holy (un)Holy River, and had come to the local dump to document the effluvia seeping from it into the nearby, sacred Ganges River. We knew what to expect: a […]

October 8, 2013, Jajmau, Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh, India My eyes watered, nose ran, lungs burned. I wasn’t sick, but I sure felt like it. We’d spent the day wandering through Jajmau, a “suburb” of Kanpur - the Manchester of the East - and touring its tanneries. Lying just south of sprawling Kanpur, Jajmau is the […]