Sometimes, people surprise you, becoming beacons of inspiration when your first impression was they'd be the opposite. My friend, Art Adams, is one of those unexpected points of light.

The K2 expedition of 1953 was a lesson in teamwork and courage, and hold many messages for us to draw upon today.

Note: The following is a memorial I wrote for the American Alpine Journal in memory of John Evans, a climber, hero, mentor, and good friend. You can find the original in the AAJ here. “You should come have dinner with my brother, John. He’s done some climbing,” Rick Evans said in a meeting one day. […]

The 1924 Camp II was the last of the pre-World War II camps on Mount Everest I had yet to find and visit. After some legwork, Sid Pattison and I were able to locate it.